I was born in February, which is the liveliest month of the Winter. I guess I took all my energy and sense of humor from it. February is when the Carnival pops up, painting all the buildings, streets and piazzas with bright colors and cheering people up with loud music. People crowd the streets dressed in costumes, wearing masks or heavy make up to feel free to be whoever they want to be, even if it is for just one day. Balconies, fences and gates are all embellished with streamers, balloons and masks.
This is what Carnevale is, the last chance for Catholics to indulge before Lent. In fact, Carnevale, from the Latin word carnem levamen, (farewell to meat) takes place the week that precedes the 40 day- period of fasting. No meat is the mandatory requirement for those who want to follow the tradition and respect the religious meaning behind it. Easter will be the next celebration.
For the Italians, Martedi Grasso or Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday) is the day before Ash Wednesday, and it represents the culmination of the festivities. As the word fat suggests, the meal for the day is a real celebration and a serious orgy of all that food which will not be eaten in the next 40 days. This tradition is no longer respected, as most people eat whatever they want any day of the week.
I just want to mention the history behind it, as Carnevale is now celebrated in every part of Italy. It was not, centuries ago. Some places celebrates with big, loud parties and some others, like Venice, are more classic, silent and elegant. What is the essence of the Carnival? Have you ever thought about it? Historians attribute the origin of Carnevale in Italy to the Roman Saturnalia and Bacchanalia, which used to take place in December/March. It represented almost a welcome to Spring after a gray cold Winter, the period or rebirth before Summer. At that time people disguised themselves by mocking the subject of their masks, in particular the slaves who wore the robes and wigs of their masters. On this occasion they used to exchange strennas (gifts) and sacrifice animals to deities, especially to Saturn.
Fast forward a few centuries, Carnevale maintained the same mood: everything had to be opulent, permitted, fun and more importantly…masked. Lascivious? That also. If orgiastic feasts were the norm during the Roman Bacchanalia, men and women could be free to enjoy themselves in Venice during the Carnival in the 1100. Thanks to the masks, which guaranteed anonymity, people were permitted to mock nobles, aristocrats, and politicians. Therefore it was common for women to disguise themselves as men and vice versa. This way they could be involved in conversations which would normally be forbidden with the opposite sex. What a fun for a peasant to be able to mingle with rich people without being recognized. This concession to the population was considered necessary to minimize social and political tensions and plots against the Serenissima Republic of Venice. For a few days people could be all equal and socialize among each other’s, safely protected by their masks. A Carnevale ogni scherzo vale! At Carnival, anything goes!
The mysterious and so popular white Bauta mask, (yes the one which was also worn in the movie Eyes Wide Shut) for example, was the one normally worn by the elite year round during the 1700. Even Casanova had one and guess why? Husbands would have made a deal with the devil just to be able to put their hands around his neck! You will agree that wearing a mask was very convenient. The Bauta, also known as Larva (latin translation for ghost) or Face is probably the scariest of all the Venetian masks. People who wore it could not talk or eat. This also was a price to pay for anonymity.
During Carnival Piazza San Marco was a bright colorful circus where acrobats, puppeteers, ballerinas, magicians, and tightrope walkers entertained the crowds. Masquerade balls were held everywhere and fritters, corn flour cookies (zaeti) dipped in sabayon and any type of food was served. The costumes were magnificent, full of laces, created with precious fabrics, mostly silk and brocade. Women looked like huge colorful meringues with tall, whipped cream like wigs, and the unmissable masks.
Still today, Venice offers that unparalleled show and if you happen to be there during Carnival, you will feel like propelled back to the Renaissance. It is mesmerizing. And do not be surprised if while you cross the small bridges over the canals, you catch the astute Harlequin from Bergamo in his colorful checkered costume dancing with the cunning servant Columbina. Be careful when you walk through those small calle, you may see Brighella, Harlequin’s best friend, chasing that Neapolitan big mouth of Pulcinella. For sure he cannot keep any secret a secret. Be scared if you meet Pantaloon, the lust greedy Venetian merchant with the large, hooked nose. He really looks like the Devil. Just want you to be prepared before you attend the Carnival in Venice.
Ultimately there is the Carnevale di Viareggio, a city not even 10 minutes far from where I live. Nothing could be more different! Loud music, gigantic moving carnival floats usually depicting and mocking Italian and foreign politicians, masquerade parades and coriandoli in the air! Costumes are not so refined and classy as the ones in Venice as they represent the playful and real side of the population in a myriad of colors. The carnival here is coarse, somehow vulgar, but joyous and lively. Just Like Venice, here too we have an official mask: Burlamacco!
Carnival also means throwing confetti, it is part of the feast. The word confetti in Italian refers to sugar covered almond candies, the type you get when people get married. The equivalent Italian word for the multicolored paper confetti is coriandoli.
Way back in the 1500, during weddings and especially at Carnival, people used to celebrate by throwing colorful eggshells and sugar covered coriander seeds and flowers. This tradition became too expensive and therefore it was replaced by small pieces of colored paper.
No matter where you find yourself during the Carnival, a vortex of coriandolimust be part of the show. Living nearby gives me the chance to go every Sunday or Saturday, depending on the calendar.
Today, for example, is Fat Thursday and the float parade takes place on the main promenade in Viareggio. The weather is not clement, unfortunately. But it is more than normal. You cannot count on the weather in February and March. The fine rain will not damage the gigantic paper mache floats but will prevent many people with children from coming.
Funny how the artists and the whole population keep their fingers crossed the whole period. They well know that Viareggio during the Winter is very melancholic, like every sea town, and this is why the Carnival represents the main attraction.
For Venice the story is totally different as the city itself attracts millions of tourists no matter what. Actually a gloomy weather will match perfectly with the decadent look of the town. In Viareggio the weather makes the difference. The prevailing spirit here is to pray, touch wood, wear red horns around the neck and hope for the sun. The scent of donuts, fritters, nut brittle, candies, brigidini (aniseed wafers) fills the air. Time to wear my costume and have a ball…and I will be carrying my umbrella. Just in case!
Rice Fritters from Viareggio
Love love this recipe which has been in my family for years! Why are they different? Because they are not flat. They are puffy and soft and coated in sugar, filled with custard or chocolate and every bite is a feast!
First cook the rice in milk
- 200 grams of Originario Rice ( if you can not find it, use Arborio)
- 500 grams whole milk
- 300 grams water
- 50 grams sugar
- 1 pinch of salt
- The zest of two lemons, avoid the pith
- 1 vanilla been, split lengthwise
- Anisette and maraschino liqueurs to your taste
Choux Paste
- 225 grams water
- 125 grams unsalted butter, cut in little pieces
- 4 grams of salt
- 150 grams AP Flour
- 225 grams whole eggs
- Oil for frying
- sugar
Cook the rice ahead of time, at least 12 hours before
Pour the milk in a medium pot and add water, sugar, lemon zest, vanilla and bring to a light boil. Add the rice and cook it for about 30 minutes. Rice should be very cooked and lquids should have been absorbed. Transfer the cooked rice to a bowl, add some maraschino and anisette to your taste, mix it and let it cool perfectly. Cover with saran wrap and refrigerate for 12 hours. Remove the rice from fridge, remove the wrap and mix it.
Prepare the choux paste by placing water, salt and butter in a medium pot and bring it to a boil. Once the butter has melted, add all the flour and using a wooden spoon mix well for 4 minutes or until the mixture dries out and comes away from the sides of the pot. Transfer the mixture to a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and start mixing to cool it. Add the eggs, one at a time until completely incorporated.
Assemble the fritters
Transfer the pate a choux to a bowl. Weigh 500 grams of cooked rice and using your fingers, break it directly into the bowl with the choux paste. Incorporate well. Transfer the mixture to a piping bag. Cut the tip off to create an opening (about 2 inches wide) In a medium and deep skillet, place the frying oil and bring it to 350 degrees F. Now pipe the content of the bag directly into the hot oil, cutting each piece of dough with scissors. Fry for about 5 minutes, turning them with a slotted spoon. They are ready when they puff up, turn dark golden and float. Using a spider transfer to a platter lined with paper towels and then roll them in sugar to fully cover them. Eat them as they are or fill them with pastry cream or chocolate.
